AHAs vs BHAs: Choosing the Right Exfoliant for Your Skin Type

Keeping your skin clear, smooth, and radiant starts with effective exfoliation — and that's where adding AHAs and BHAs into your skincare come in. These powerhouse ingredients work to gently remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and boost skin renewal, revealing a fresher, healthier complexion underneath. Understanding the differences between AHAs and BHAs can help you choose the right exfoliant for your skin’s unique needs and achieve real results at home.

What are AHA’s & BHA’s in skincare?

AHA’s (Alpha hydroxy acids) and BHA’s (beta hydroxy acids) both smooth the outer surface and speed up the cell turnover of your skin, which slows down with age. AHAs (also called glycolic or lactic acids) are water-soluble and come from fruit and milk sugars; BHAs, such as salicylic acid, are oil-soluble, so they help to clean out clogged pores. 

Why do we need AHA’s in our skin care routine?

1. AHAs dissolve dead skin bonds:
   Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) help break down the bonds holding dead skin cells on your face, allowing new skin cells to rise to the surface.

2. AHAs are ideal for dry or sensitive skin:
   As a gentle chemical exfoliant, AHAs are perfect for those who need to remove dead skin without physical scrubbing.

3. AHAs act as humectants:
   They help retain moisture in the skin, keeping it hydrated and supple.

4. AHAs improve skin structure and collagen:
   They assist in thickening the epidermis and stimulating collagen production—great for repairing photo-damaged skin and protecting against future UV damage.

Why do we need BHA’s in our skin care routine?

1. BHAs target acne-prone skin:
   BHAs are oil-soluble, making them highly effective for clearing blackheads, whiteheads, and general acne.

2. BHAs clean deep within the pores:
   They penetrate the skin’s oil barrier to loosen blockages and clear clogged pores.
   
   

3. BHAs have anti-inflammatory benefits:
   Salicylic acid, a common BHA, is derived from aspirin and helps reduce skin inflammation.

4. BHAs boost collagen and improve texture:
   BHAs can help with skin thickness, collagen production, fine lines, rough texture, and hyperpigmentation—though they can be drying if overused.

5. Exfoliation makes skin feel refreshed:
   There’s no better feeling than post-exfoliation skin—like giving your face a fresh, clean slate.

6. You can achieve spa-like results at home:
   Even if professional treatments aren’t an option, a weekly exfoliation routine with the right acids can make a big difference. Forget ineffective scrubs—it’s time to switch to targeted exfoliating ingredients tailored to your skin’s needs.

Types of AHAs 

• Lactic acid: made from sour milk, suitable for dry, ultra dry and sensitive, smoothes fine lines, wrinkles and rough skin texture, lightly hydrates and plumps skin

• Mandelic acid: suitable for sensitive, oily and acne prone skins, softens fine lines, wrinkles and pigment left from acne, treats acne and blackheads, regulates oil production

• Malic acid: suitable for all except sensitive skin, helps retain hydration, dissolves dead skin and milia, treats acne, softens fine lines and wrinkles, smoothes texture

• Tartaric acid: suitable for dry skin, contains antioxidant properties, softens fine lines and wrinkles, dissolves dead flaky skin

• Glycolic acid: made from cane sugar, suitable for all skins except for sensitive, lightens hyperpigmentation/sun damage, softens fine lines and wrinkles, dissolves dead skin, smoothes texture, stimulates collagen production and brightens

Watch out for photosensitivity! Your skin gets more prone to photodamage, so make sure your SPF is on and reapplied every 2 hours while using it as part of your home regimen or if used in professional treatment. Your therapist will advise.

Types of BHAs

Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid works by penetrating deeply into the pores, starting from the top of the follicle and moving downward. Attracted to the oil (sebum) in our skin, it effectively digests and clears out the buildup, making it a powerful treatment for acne, blackheads, and congested pores. Salicylic acid also has strong anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and even helps stimulate collagen production over time. It’s best suited for oily skin and acne-prone skin types, though it can be a bit drying for other skin types if overused. It's great for occasional targeted use, like decongesting a blackhead-prone nose! Unlike some other active ingredients, salicylic acid does not cause photosensitivity, so it can be safely used both day and night.

How to Use Them in Your Skincare

Start by cleansing your skin to remove any makeup, oil, or impurities. Once your skin is clean and dry, apply your AHA or BHA product — this could be a toner, serum, or treatment solution. Always follow the instructions on the product label, and start slowly if you're new to acids; once or twice a week is plenty to begin with.

AHAs are generally best used in the evening because they can make the skin a little more sensitive to sunlight. Apply a small amount evenly over the face, avoiding the delicate eye area. Follow with a nourishing moisturiser to lock in hydration.

BHAs, like salicylic acid, are perfect for oily or congested areas and can be used either all over the face or as a targeted treatment on problem spots like the nose, chin, or forehead. They can be used day or night, but just like with AHAs, always apply SPF the next morning to protect your skin.

If you're combining both AHAs and BHAs in your routine, introduce them slowly and on different days at first to avoid overwhelming your skin. Always listen to how your skin responds — a little tingling is normal, but burning, stinging, or excessive dryness are signs you need to scale back.

Tips for Using AHAs and BHAs Safely

• Start slow:
  Introduce AHAs and BHAs gradually into your routine — once or twice a week at first — to see how your skin reacts.

• Always patch test:
  Before applying acids to your entire face, do a small test on your jawline or behind your ear to check for any irritation or allergies.

• Use sunscreen daily:
  AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so a broad-spectrum SPF is an absolute must every morning (even on cloudy days).

• Don’t mix too many actives:
  Avoid layering AHAs or BHAs with other strong actives like retinol or vitamin C at the same time unless you're confident your skin can handle it.

• Moisturise afterwards:
  Always follow your acid step with a hydrating serum or moisturiser to support your skin barrier and prevent dryness.

• Listen to your skin:
  A mild tingling sensation can be normal, but if you experience stinging, burning, peeling, or excessive redness, it's time to cut back.

• Be careful with sensitive areas:
  Avoid applying acids too close to the eyes, around the nostrils, and directly on cracked or irritated skin.

• Pick the right strength:
  Higher percentages aren't always better — start with lower concentrations and build up only if your skin tolerates it well.

Can I Use AHA and BHA Together? 

Yes, but with care! BHAs are more suited to acne-prone skin types because they are oil-soluble, allowing them to penetrate deeply into pores and clear out blockages like blackheads and whiteheads. Salicylic acid, a well-known BHA, is also a derivative of aspirin, giving it strong anti-inflammatory properties — perfect for calming down irritated skin.

BHAs can increase skin thickness, stimulate collagen production, and improve issues like fine lines, rough texture, and hyperpigmentation. However, they don’t have humectant qualities like AHAs do, and overuse can sometimes lead to dryness.

Pairing an AHA and a BHA together can offer a comprehensive exfoliation — tackling both surface-level and deeper pore concerns — but it's important to start slow and listen to your skin.

AHA BHA FAQs

Q: What is an Example of an AHA?

A: One of the most common examples of an AHA is glycolic acid. Other popular AHAs include lactic acid and mandelic acid — all known for their ability to gently exfoliate, boost hydration, and improve skin clarity over time.

Q: How often should I exfoliate with AHAs and BHAs?

A: Aim for once a week to start, gradually increasing frequency if your skin tolerates it well.

Q: Can I use an AHA or BHA with other active ingredients?

A: Be cautious when layering acids with strong actives like retinol or vitamin C, as this could increase irritation.

Q: What skin concerns benefit most from AHA or BHA use?

A: AHAs are great for dry, textured, or photo-damaged skin, while BHAs excel at treating acne, congestion, and oiliness.

Q: Can sensitive skin types use AHAs and BHAs?

A: Yes, but opt for lower concentrations and always patch test first to avoid irritation.