Retinol & Retinal: A Pharmacist’s Guide to Starting Vitamin A for Skin Ageing

What is retinol, and how does it work? 

Retinol is a form of vitamin A used in skincare to help improve the appearance of photoageing which is a term used for the visible changes that develop with cumulative UV exposure - as well as fine lines, uneven texture and pigmentation. 

When applied to the skin, retinol is converted into retinaldehyde (also known as retinal), and then into retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is the biologically active form that interacts with receptors in skin cells. 

Retinoids can help support skin cell turnover and influence processes involved in collagen production. With consistent use, this can help skin look smoother, more even and refreshed. 

It’s worth remembering that retinol is not an overnight fix. Results take time, and consistency matters more than choosing the strongest product available. 

Retinol vs retinal: what’s the difference? 

Retinol and retinal are both vitamin A derivatives, but they differ in how many conversion steps are required before they become retinoic acid. 

Because retinal is one step closer to retinoic acid, it is often positioned as a more advanced or potentially faster-acting option. However, this doesn’t mean retinal is automatically better for everyone. Strength, formulation, delivery technology and skin tolerance all play an important role in selecting the right product for your skin. 

Prescription retinoids, such as tretinoin, are a separate category and should not be equated with cosmetic retinol or retinal products. 

Retinal may be an appealing option for someone who has already built up tolerance to retinol and wants to progress their routine. For a beginner, a well-formulated retinol product may be a better starting point. 

I wouldn’t choose a product based on the ingredient name alone. A higher percentage or a more advanced retinoid doesn’t guarantee better results if it causes persistent irritation and you cannot use it consistently. 

How to choose a retinol strength 

There is no single percentage that is right for everyone. If you’re new to retinoids, start with a lower-strength product and introduce it slowly. 

A few things to consider: 

A stronger retinoid is not necessarily the best retinoid. Your skin’s tolerance should guide your routine, because we have to be able to use it long term if we want to get results. A product that feels uncomfortable or irritating is not one you are going to want to use, and burning or stinging is not a sign that it is working – it is likely a sign that the product you are using is not suitable for your skin, or is not suitable for your skin yet. 

How to introduce retinol into your skincare routine 

The most common mistake I see is introducing retinol too frequently, too quickly - or combining it with several other active ingredients from the outset. 

Here’s how I recommend starting: 

If you have sensitive or dry skin, you can try applying moisturiser before / with your retinol to help reduce irritation. Avoid applying it close to the corners of your nose, lips or eyes unless the product is specifically intended for those areas. 

Encapsulated Retinol = Better Stability? 

Some retinol products use encapsulation technology. This means the retinol is enclosed within a protective carrier, such as a liposomal structure.  

Think of it as a tiny protective package around the ingredient. Encapsulation can help improve stability and support more controlled delivery of retinol into the skin. The aim is to provide the benefits of retinol while helping to minimise potential irritation. 

However, encapsulated retinol can still cause dryness or sensitivity. It is not a guarantee of irritation-free use. 

Skin Formulas Retinol A+ Serum is an example of a product containing 0.3% encapsulated retinol within a liposomal delivery system. The formula also includes squalane and vitamin E to help support skin hydration and comfort. 

Using Retinol alongside other skincare ingredients 

Retinol can fit into a routine alongside many other skincare ingredients. The key is to avoid overwhelming your skin, particularly when you’re first starting. 

You don’t need an elaborate routine to get results. A gentle cleanser, retinoid, moisturiser and daily SPF can be a very effective foundation. 

Retinol and Peeling Skin… 

Retinol can cause dryness, redness, flaking, sensitivity or a mild stinging sensation, particularly during the initial adjustment period. 

However, peeling is not proof that a product is working. Persistent itching, burning, any painful irritation, swelling or cracking are signs that your skin may not be tolerating the product and would warrant stopping it and speaking to a skincare specialist or Pharmacist. This is something I often speak with Clients about in our Naas Clinic.   

If irritation develops: 

Retinol and the delicate eye area 

The skin around the eyes is thinner and can be more prone to dryness and irritation. Retinol and retinal eye products are formulated specifically for this area, but they still need to be introduced carefully. 

A few Millie’s products worth exploring: 

La Roche-Posay Redermic Retinol Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream 

This eye cream contains pure retinol alongside progressive-release retinol technology. It is designed to target the appearance of wrinkles and signs of fatigue around the eye contour. Caffeine is also included in the formula. 

Medik8 Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye 

This retinal eye cream is available in progressive strengths: 

Medik8 recommends starting with the lower strength and progressing only when the skin is comfortable with the product, which can be discussed with a skin specialist, like those in our Naas Clinic. 

Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum: Ginseng + Retinal 

This combines retinal liposomes with ginseng extract in a lightweight serum texture. The brand describes the retinal as being delivered in liposomes; its stated “2% retinal liposome” is not the same as 2% pure retinal. 

As with any retinoid eye product, introduce it gradually and avoid applying too close to the eyes. 

Millie’s retinol and retinal recommendations 

Here are a few facial products to consider, depending on experience and skin needs. 

Skin Formulas Retinol A+ Serum – 0.3% encapsulated retinol 

A liposomal retinol formula designed to support smoother-looking skin texture and more even tone. Squalane and vitamin E are included to help support hydration and skin comfort. The encapsulation technology is useful for anyone concerned about retinol irritation. 

La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum 

This facial serum combines retinol with vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and glycerin. It targets the appearance of fine lines and uneven texture, while the supporting ingredients help with hydration and barrier comfort.  

Medik8 Crystal Retinal 

A retinal range with different strengths designed to allow users to progress gradually as their skin builds tolerance. Retinal is one conversion step closer to retinoic acid than retinol, and it is still important to start with a suitable strength. 

The best product is the one that suits your skin, your experience and your ability to use it consistently. 

The new EU retinol regulations: what do they mean? 

In 2024, the European Commission introduced new restrictions on the use of certain forms of vitamin A in cosmetic products. 

The regulation specifically covers: 

The maximum permitted concentrations are: 

“Contains Vitamin A. Consider your daily intake before use.” 

The transition dates are: 

An important distinction: the limits are expressed as Retinol Equivalent (RE), which is not always identical to the raw percentage of an ingredient shown on a product label. The regulation also does not apply as a blanket concentration limit to every vitamin A derivative; retinaldehyde (retinal) is not one of the three specifically named substances. 

These regulations are concentration limits, not recommendations for beginner use. A product being within the legal limit does not mean it is suitable for every skin type. 

Can you use retinol during pregnancy or breastfeeding? 

The HSE advises avoiding retinol and retinoids during pregnancy, breastfeeding and when trying to conceive. This is a precaution based on the wider concerns around vitamin A derivatives and pregnancy. 

If you are pregnant, breastfeeding or trying to conceive, speak with your pharmacist, GP or dermatologist before introducing any active skincare. 

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived ingredient often marketed as a retinol alternative. It is used in skincare to help improve the appearance of fine lines, uneven tone and texture. 

It is not a retinoid, but evidence supporting its benefits and safety is more limited than for retinol. It is also important not to assume that plant-derived automatically means pregnancy- or breastfeeding-safe. 

Skin Formulas Bakuchiol Serum and SKN TO SKN skincare options may be worth exploring for those looking for retinol-free routines, or indeed during pregnancy and breastfeeding. The SKN to SKN range has specific products marked as pregnancy safe, but which still contain useful active ingredients to help promote healthy skin, such as their Glow Duo Set, containing their Glow & Go Daily Moisturiser with SPF and a tint (Light or Deep) and their Sleep Cheat night cream, containing ingredients like Omega 3, 6, 9, Ceramides, Hyaluronic Acid, and Niacinamide.  

How long does retinol take to work? 

Retinol is a long-term skincare ingredient. Some people may notice improvements in texture or radiance after several weeks, but visible changes in fine lines and pigmentation generally take longer. 

Think in terms of a consistent routine over weeks to months, rather than expecting a dramatic change after a few applications. 

And remember: daily SPF, gentle cleansing and moisturising remain essential parts of any skin-ageing routine. 

My pharmacist’s take 

Retinol and retinal can be valuable additions to a skincare routine when used appropriately. But you don’t need to chase the highest percentage or the most advanced ingredient to get started. 

Choose a product suited to your skin, introduce it gradually, moisturise well and be consistent with SPF. If your skin is persistently irritated, take a step back rather than pushing through.